I will be showing a range of work including the pen and ink work I showed in a previous post, Woodcuts, greeting cards and the framed watercolours shown here.
|Cromer (£35 Framed size 40cm x50cm)|
|Cromer (£35 Framed size 40cm x50cm)|
|Maple Leaf Greeting Card|
|Sparrowhawk feather Greeting Card|
|Tawny Owl feather Greeting Card|
|Ouse nr Ely|
|View to Wyton|
|View to St Ives|
|The first step was to sketch out an idea for the composition|
|Once I was happy I transferred the drawing to tracing paper|
|I then transferred the outline to the wood block. The wood is a block of lime cut from some 200yr old trees felled on the Burghley estate. Lime is a traditional wood used in craving and woodcuts due to it's straight close grain.|
|Once the outline was on the block I drew in the rest of the image.|
|I could then start carving the details. You will notice that there is a lot more detail than in the outline sketch. I find that as I start cutting into the wood I get a feel for how the work should develop, you also have to visualise the final piece remembering that the areas in relief will pick up the ink.|
|Once the carving is finished it is time to ink up the block. At this point you can spot any errors|
|The first proof print hanging up to dry, drying takes 2-3 days.|
|I took a large thick walled wine glass which I had painted with whit paint. to allow me to draw a cutting line on the surface.|
|Using a diamond saw I then cut the base off the glass. The saw I used was one I had for cutting floor tiles. Diamond saws are very safe to use but as I was cutting glass i wore gloved and wore a safety visor in case of shattering.|
|I smoothed the rough edges with some wet and dry paper. It was important to make the hole the right size for the fitting in this case 2 inches.|
|I then attached the antique fitting. The fitting and the braided flex are both new not recycled for safety reasons.|
|The final stage was to attach the lamp to the stand using a piece of chain. The base was made from an oak base with spruce uprights. I made all the fittings from brass sheet|
|I made the uprights adjustable, there is a spring attached between the arm and the uprights to counter the weight of the lamp|
|It works !!|
I was asked by friend if I Could make her some windchimes For the balcony in Trinidad. I had never made windchimes before so I thought it would be a challenge. When I researched how to make them I found it was actually far more complicated than I thought, the tubes must be cut to precise length to obtain a true note. Luckily I found a very good website they gave me the lengths that I needed and also the distance from the end of the tube to drill the 'hanging point' as this also affects the sound.
I decided to make the chimes from stainless steel this gives a very nice resonance when struck. The supporting structure is made from Perspex and the striker is made from a combination of Perspex and brass. To make the sail that catches the wind driving the striker I used Perspex surrounded by copper wire. The whole thing was hung on braided nylon fishing line. I made a hook from a piece of brass wire to hang the whole thing from.
The whole project took me about a week to complete however part of that time was waiting for materials to arrive. It would be great fun to make a larger one as the longer the tubing the nicer the note as you get better harmonics. I had to make this one reasonable small as it has to be transported home to the West Indies.
|Drill holes in the support after cutting out centre hole.|
|Main components, Support, striker, and sail.|
|Chimes with hanging bars in place. Hanging in studio while glue sets|
|Close up of sail, made from Perspex and copper wire|
|Powdered Pigment in this case Venetian red|
|Using a Glass Muller to fine grind the pigment and remove any lumps|
|Adding extender, a neutral base used to carry the pigment|
|Finished ink rolled on a plate ready for use|
The ink works really well so I am now planning to expand the selection of pigments that I have to play with.